Tag Archives: Incas

Our Peru Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands Adventure – Machu Picchu

Monday 2nd

Today was a day that held the possibility of being disappointing. Machu Picchu is a place that is on everyone’s bucket list, and possibly the most Instagramed place on earth. What if it didn’t live up to the hype and expectations?

The day started early, very early, a wake up call at four a.m. early. Our wonderful hotel had breakfast waiting for us, with the option of a take-away. It was difficult to drink enough coffee to wake me up properly. I filled the largest cup available to take with me.

We had to be in a place called Ollantaytambo to catch the train to Machu Picchu. The bus journey there was uneventful, I dozed most of the way. Well apart from when we hit random speed humps placed in unexpected places. We travelled down the Sacred Valley, also called the Urumbamba Valley, as it follows the course of the Urumbamba river.

We arrived in Ollantaytambo in time to catch the 08:00 train to Aguas Calientes.

The train journey takes about an hour and a half. We travelled along the banks of the fast flowing Urumbamba River, through spectacular Andean scenery. On the way we were entertained by a shaman who gave us some of the history of the place. There was also quite a lot about the spiritual and practical uses of coca leaves. I didn’t quite follow all that he told us about the spiritual significance. Still, the practical uses are helping relieve altitude sickness and keeping you awake. There were coca teabags in our hotel room for that purpose. (For relieving altitude sickness, rather than keeping you awake). They are also the raw material for the manufacture of cocaine, but he didn’t dwell on that.

After we arrived in Aguas Calientes, we took a short walk from the station. We then caught a bus to Machu Picchu itself. It is a very long and winding road up to the ruins. Spectacular, but it can also feel slightly scary. Especially if you are not keen on looking down vertical drops of a few hundred meters. After about twenty five minutes we arrived safely at the ruins. But it was the easier way. Well compared the the route our daughter, and also a couple of our friends, took to get there. They walked the Inca Trail. I would point out that they were a lot younger than we are now.

The number of visitors to the site is carefully controlled. Likewise, the parts of the site we were allowed to visit were regulated. There are three designated routes. I went on route two, which has a fair amount of climbing. Diane was still having some trouble with her knee. She chose the low level route three. She also had her own personal guide.

My one piece of advice to anyone planning to visit Machu Picchu is make sure you have decent footwear. You need at least a good pair of training shoes. This is not a place for flip flops.

Now that I had arrived, what did I think of Machu Picchu?

I was not disappointed. It is as spectacular as the publicity suggests, possibly more so. The choice of my photos below only hint at how spectacular the site is.

Our guide was very knowledgeable and entertaining, but I did not absorb everything he told us. This Wikipedia Machu Picchu page link offers a more detailed account of the site than I could manage. It is also more accurate than I would have produced.

One thing I do remember though . The tree pictured in one of the slides above is there because someone put their walking stick in the ground. Then forgot about it. It took root and grew into the tree that is there now.

It took about two hours to walk around the site. I don’t know that we saw everything, but we saw enough.

The trip back down to Aguas Calientes was slightly less scary than the trip up. This was possibly because I knew what to expect with the views of the drop offs. After we arrived back in the town we had a short walk to a restaurant for lunch. It was fine if nothing memorable.

After lunch we had about an hour or so to kill before we caught the train back to Ollantaytambo. So naturally we spent it looking for toy llamas for our grand-kids. Diane also liked the look of some of the silver bangles that were for sale. So she bought some.

The trip back to Ollantaytambo, was similar to the trip out. We had entertainment on the way back as well. This time, we had a theatre group. They presented the tale of two star-crossed lovers from the pre-Columbian times. It was entertaining.

It’s also worth noting that the train had an observation car. This car, with its glass roof, gave an amazing view of the valley.

We arrived back in Ollantaytambo after about ninety minutes. It was beginning to get dark. We found our way back to the bus to take us back to Cuzco. Two hours later we were back at our hotel.

We had dinner and then straight to bed. Ready for another early start the next day,

It was a very long day. It was worth it though. Machu Picchu was every thing that I hoped it would be. It was visually spectacular. It was historically and architecturally interesting. Possibly arriving at dawn, having walked the Inca Trail, might have made the experience even more memorable. Even so I will remember the day for the rest of my life. A genuine bucket list experience.

Our Peru, Ecuador and Galapagos Adventure

We have been off on our travels again. This time to South America.

Diane and her friend Helen like the occasional exotic holiday. They have been to Costa Rica and Namibia in the past. About this time last year they started plotting planning again. The Galapagos Islands were suggested. Various options were explored, but they eventually settled on this trip with HX Expeditions. This time, however, they generously allowed me and Helen’s partner Tony to tag along.

For my part, I left the planning to Diane. I did have a problem finding suitable clothing for a tropical expedition, in January, in Kingston. If I had been going skiing, or ice climbing, no problem, but lightweight quick drying clothes, not so easy. I eventually found some trousers, but couldn’t find the type of shirts that I wanted.

We were told that the ship would supply all the snorkeling gear we needed. So I didn’t need to worry about that. They do supply all the required gear. I decided to get a couple of SPF50 rash vests from Decathlon. You don’t normally need to worry about getting sunburn swimming at the Malden Centre.

Friday 30th January: Getting There

Our car turned up at 03:15 to take us to Heathrow. There are no direct flights from London to Lima, so we flew with Air France via Paris.

Diane unfortunately managed to damage her knee during our Pilates class the Sunday before. It had improved, she was still having trouble walking, so we asked for assistance at the airport. Having assistance made getting through security easier. But it also meant some hanging around waiting for a person with a wheelchair to show up.

All aboard the love train

The flights were fine, if long, at twelve hours. Diane decided to upgrade us to business class, which was worth it.

We landed in Lima (Peru) about 17:00 local time. We retrieved our bags and then fought our way through Lima’s traffic. It was about 20:30 when we arrived at our hotel, the AC Hotel Miraflores. We ordered a sandwich and a beer from room service, then went to bed.

Saturday 31st January: Exploring Lima

This would be the last morning for a while that we would have breakfast at a semi-sensible time. After breakfast, we met at about 09:30 for a walking tour of Lima. The hotel is situated a fair way from the centre of the Lima, so a bus was laid on to take us to the centre

We commenced our tour in the Plaza José de San Martin. It is named after the liberator of Peru, General José de San Martin, who proclaimed Peru’s independence in 1841. It is an attractive square, but had rather a lot of police hanging around. Not sure what for. Our guide did mention that the plaza was often the focus point for demonstrations and protests. I don’t know if they were expecting one later in the day.

We walked along Jiron de La Union, the main street. We passed the impressive Basilica de La Merced on the way. We didn’t go in, we didn’t have time.

c19th drawing of the facade

I hadn’t realised it initially, but we had started on an American in Europe style tour of Peru and Ecuador.

We carried on down Jiron de La Union until we reached the Plaza Mayor (Main Square). It has the Presidential Palace on one side. The Town Hall takes up the second side. On the third side, we have the Archbishop’s palace and the Basilica Cathedral de Lima. The fourth side is shops and restaurants.

We had a look round the Cathedral. It looks very much like any other Catholic cathedral. However, because Lima suffers frequent earthquakes, the cathedral has been destroyed several times. It is now largely constructed from wood and adobe bricks. The Cathedral also holds the bones of Francisco Pizarro, the Conquistador. (The bones on show are replicas)

We left the cathedral, and the wedding that was in progress. We gave our regards to President Balcázar then headed back to the bus. Our next stop was the Museo Larco. On the way there, we passed a pre-Inca pyramid.

The Museo Larco is an impressive collection of pre-Colombian art. Their website tells how the collection came about, and explains the museum’s purpose today. The museum is situated in a private house and is privately owned. On display are pre-Colombian textiles, pottery and metal work. It was all impressive, but as with the conquistadors, it was the gold that caught the eye.

Part of the museum houses a collection of Inca and pre-Inca erotic art. The collection is mainly pottery and were quite graphic in some cases. This being a family friendly blog, I have not included any photographs. For those of you interested, this link takes you to the Erotic Gallery website.

We had lunch at the restaurant attached to the museum, which I would recommend. After lunch, we headed back to the hotel. Diane decided to have a nap. I couldn’t sleep, so I went for a wander. I found a statue of Peru’s most famous character.

We thought about going out for dinner, but I didn’t see anywhere that caught my eye on my wander. We were going to start early the next day. So, we decided to have dinner at the hotel. Then we went to bed.