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Peru, Ecuador and The Galapagos, Travel

Final Thoughts on Our South American Adventure

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If you have been following our adventures in South America, you might be interested in my thoughts on the holiday.

This was not a cheap holiday

Before I start summarising our adventure, I should point out that this was not a cheap holiday. The following link takes you to the HX website and the adventure that we joined. The current cost is just over £10,000, but that is excluding the cost of flights to and from South America. Currently, that would be about £2000 flying economy. There are probably cheaper ways of doing it, but it would still not be cheap.

We decided to include the pre-cruise trip to Machu Picchu, because if we were going all that way it would be silly to miss it. At the age of seventy, we might not get another chance. If we had left that side trip out, we would have saved £2000 on the overall cost of the package.

Map of our Adventure

The Mainland

The part of the trip (Peru and Ecuador) before joining the ship was quite hectic. There were a lot of early starts. It did feel a bit like the old joke “If it’s Wednesday, it must be Cuzco”. Probably my only real complaint about the holiday was that I would have liked an extra day in there. However, looking at the current itinerary for that part of the tour, there appear to be two nights in a resort closer to Machu Picchu and only one in Cuzco, so possibly HX thought the schedule was a bit busy as well.

Apart from the fact that it all felt slightly manic at times, there was nothing to fault about the mainland part of our adventure.

All of the hotels we stayed in were very good, and in particular the Palacio del Inca, in Cuzco was exceptional. They were all comfortable and the food was good. The connections and luggage transfers were smooth. We were kept well informed about what was happening.

The Cruise

I’ve called this part of the adventure “The Cruise,” but it wasn’t a cruise in the sense of a massive, multi-thousand-passenger ship. The MS Santa Cruz II carries a maximum of just ninety-two passengers. There was no evening entertainment, apart from a few short lectures on different aspects of the Galapagos Islands. There was only one restaurant. There were two lounges, one, whose main features were a library and the self-service coffee machines. It tended to serve as a chill out space. It was also the gathering point for most of the expeditions. The other incorporated the bar and was the venue for most of the briefings and short lectures. Aft of the bar was an open deck area with seating.

Our cabin was comfortable. It was not huge, but we found it to be large enough. There was enough storage for all our clothes and other bits and bobs. Our suitcases fitted nicely under the beds. It had an ensuite toilet and shower room, which again was compact but adequate. We didn’t do much in the cabin other than sleep, so we didn’t find the size an issue. No keys were supplied, which seemed to discombobulate some passengers. As the ship never docks, security isn’t as much of an issue as it could be.

Once on board, there was no need to spend anything. Everything was included, apart from premium drinks. If you had to have Dom Perignon champagne or a 25 year-old Macallan whisky, you would have had to pay, but the standard options were all covered. There was a small shop on board where you could buy souvenirs, or any bits and pieces that you may have forgotten. Basically there was not much to spend your money on.

Masks, snorkels, fins and wetsuits were supplied for the snorkelling expeditions. Walking sticks were available if we needed them for the walking expeditions. The ship also supplied a backpack and a water bottle which were ours to keep.

It was also a very active holiday. There were up to four excursions per day. Generally two of them would involve water based activities, such as snorkelling or kayaking. The others would be walks to see the land based wildlife.

The holiday was educational. There were lectures every day covering geology, natural history, evolution—including Charles Darwin’s contribution—the human history of the islands, among other topics. In addition to that, the ship employed some very knowledgeable and enthusiastic naturalist guides who accompanied us on the expeditions. They were very informative about what we were seeing, whether it be lava formations or Blue-footed Boobies.

Who would this holiday suit?

As I have already said, it was a very active holiday, and to make the most of it you had to be reasonably fit. There was quite a lot of walking involved, a fair bit of it over rough ground. You needed to be reasonably flexible to get in and out of the Pangas. The dry landings were sometimes harder than the wet landings. Getting out of the Panga when snorkelling was easy, but getting back afterwards involved climbing up a short ladder. So again a certain amount of fitness was required.

I am a slightly overweight seventy-year-old who is moderately fit. I go to the gym, cycle slowly, and swim two or three times a week. I managed everything comfortably. There were quite a few people on the trip who were older than me, and they did fine as well. The levels of fitness required are not those of an Olympian.

Having said that, my wife Diane hurt her knee, just before we left. HX adapted several of the excursions to suit her. She had her own personal guide at Machu Picchu, and went round a route that had considerably less climbing. On board the ship, they had easier walks that she could do. She tried snorkelling, but didn’t get on with it; however there was the option of a glass-bottomed boat. This was also a boon for non-swimmers. She had no problems kayaking.

The main attraction is undoubtedly the unique wildlife of the Galapagos. A selection of them are known as “The Big Fifteen”. The link takes you to a page detailing them. We saw all of them bar the Albatross and the Santa Fe Land Iguana, because we didn’t visit the islands that they inhabit. Next time.

Besides “The Big Fifteen” there are lots of other fascinating and unique creatures to be seen. Apart from the penguins and the sealions, no marine creatures are listed.

This holiday will suit you if:

  1. You like wildlife. The Flora and Fauna of the Galápagos are unique and fascinating. The animals have never learned to fear humans, so encounters are extraordinarily close.
  2. You like a structure to your day and don’t mind some early starts. You also value educational travel — Every landing requires a licensed naturalist guide. You’re learning constantly: geology, evolution, conservation, species behaviour.
  3. You are a photographer. Close wildlife access, dramatic volcanic landscapes, and golden equatorial light make the islands a dream for both casual and serious photographers. I took my ten year-old Panasonic Lumix pocket camera and took some great shots. The ship had a resident photographer/videographer, who shared his shots with us. So you didn’t have to have the ultimate camera set up to go home with good photos.
  4. You are an active traveller — Daily landings, Zodiac rides, nature walks, and snorkelling are core to the experience.

This holiday might not suit you if:

  1. You dislike early starts, structured days, or mandatory briefings — Many aspects of the holiday are regimented because of the National Park rules.
  2. You prefer resort‑style cruise — There’s no nightlife, shopping, or “sea days by the pool.”
  3. You are prone to seasickness — I don’t suffer from seasickness (I am fortunate in that regard) but during the time we were on the ship (February), the seas were smooth. I don’t think that anyone else suffered either. That said, the cool season (Jun–Nov) can bring rougher seas.
  4. You want full control of your itinerary — Itineraries are fixed by the National Park; ships cannot improvise or swap landing sites.

Summary

This was a holiday of a lifetime. I enjoyed every minute of it, even the early starts. All the accommodation was excellent, the transfers and luggage handling was smooth, the excursions were interesting and well organised and all our guides were helpful, informative and knowledgeable. As I have already said, it was not a budget holiday, but I thought it was value for money.

Is there anything that I would have changed? Well, ideally my friend Helen wouldn’t have fallen and badly cut herself on a lava outcrop. The treatment she received from the onboard doctor was first-class, but we would rather not have had to find that out. And Diane would not have damaged her knee, doing Pilates, the Sunday before we were due to leave. Again, HX did a very good job of accommodating her. But similarly, we would rather not have had to find that out.

Footnote

I have not included our enforced layover in Guayaquil in this summary as I do not feel it was part of our holiday. What happened was beyond the control of HX, although they did try to help where they could.

Peru, Ecuador and The Galapagos, Travel

The Galapagos Islands – Part VII

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Thursday 12th February – Bird Island

We were now eight days into our expedition/cruise around the Galapagos Islands on the M.S. Santa Cruz II. Today would be our last full day. We had thoroughly enjoyed everything up to now, including the early starts. They were worth it. Every island had been different—different wildlife, different scenery, and different adventures. We were determined to make the most of our last day on “Bird Island”

Or Isla Genovesa to give it its proper name.

“Bird Island”

But first a little geology. As can be seen from the above image, Genovesa is a volcanic Island, a shield volcano, to be precise, with a collapsed caldera, which forms Great Darwin Bay. In the middle of the island is a salt water crater lake called Lake Arcturus.

It is not the most northerly island in the archipelago, Pinta, Marchena and the isolated islets Darwin and Wolf, lie further north. However Genovesa was as far north as we went. The island is completely uninhabited (by Homo sapiens) and quite remote.

Genovesa is known as “Bird Island” because of the large and varied bird population. I will introduce you to them as we go.

Prince Philip’s Steps.

Santa Cruz II anchored in the bay and after breakfast, but still early, we took the Pangas to the island.

We landed at Prince Philip’s Steps. A steep narrow staircase, cut into the volcanic rock. They take you from sea level to cliff top about twenty five metres above. From there a path takes you onto the plateau, filled with nesting birds.

The cynic in me thought they had been built for Prince Philip, when he visited in 1964, to save him getting his feet wet. Apparently they were just named after him, to honour his visit to the island. Prince Philip was already deeply involved in conservation work—he helped establish the World Wildlife Fund in 1961—and his interest in Galápagos wildlife made the visit notable.

As we climbed the steps it became obvious why it was known as “Bird Island”. We were greeted by birds of all descriptions, none of whom seemed to bother that we were there.

The first I encountered was a Nazca Booby chick, sitting in the middle of the path. Mum was alongside keeping an eye on things.

There are three types of Booby in the Galapagos. The Blue Footed, the Nazca and the Red Footed. The Blue Footed Booby is not found on Genovesa, although it is ubiquitous elsewhere in the archipelago. The Nazca Booby is also fairly widespread. The Red Footed Booby is more or less only found on Genovesa. It is also the most numerous of the three.

The Red Footed Boobies are fairly unique for a sea bird, in that they nest in trees.

Moving on past the booby chick, we encountered a huge variety of birds. The Frigate Birds were probably the most spectacular.

The males are distinguished by their red pouch under their chins. It is inflated as part of their mating display. They are very elegant and maneuverable in flight. Their method of feeding is harassing other birds into giving up their catch.

There is a colony of Wedge Rumped Storm Petrels, that nests on the cliff top.

Wedge Rumped Storm Petrels with a Short Eared Owl.

There is also a colony of Galapagos Short Eared Owls, which prey on the Storm Petrels.

Short Eared Owls

Just trying to remember the names of all the birds that I saw is a challenge.

Bird Species Seen by me on Genovesa

Below is a reference table of the bird species I encountered on Genovesa. It includes common and scientific names, families, and links for anyone who wants to dive deeper.

Common Name Scientific Name Family Wikipedia Link Notes
Red-footed Booby Sula sula Sulidae Red-footed Booby Genovesa; tree-nesting booby
Nazca Booby Sula granti Sulidae Nazca Booby Genovesa cliffs
Red-billed Tropicbird Phaethon aethereus Phaethontidae Red-billed Tropicbird Nesting on Genovesa
Galápagos Shearwater Puffinus subalaris Procellariidae Galápagos Shearwater Endemic; often in feeding flocks
Elliot’s Storm-Petrel Oceanites gracilis Oceanitidae Elliot’s Storm-Petrel Seen around Genovesa
Band-rumped Storm-Petrel Hydrobates castro Hydrobatidae Band-rumped Storm-Petrel Pelagic; breeds in Galápagos
Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel Hydrobates tethys Hydrobatidae Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel Abundant around Genovesa
Great Frigatebird Fregata minor Fregatidae Great Frigatebird Seen across islands
Swallow-tailed Gull Creagrus furcatus Laridae Swallow-tailed Gull Endemic; nocturnal gull
Brown Noddy Anous stolidus Laridae Brown Noddy Common coastal species
American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus Haematopodidae American Oystercatcher Seen on beaches and rocky shores
Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea Ardeidae Yellow-crowned Night Heron Rábida; hunts crabs
Striated Heron Butorides striata Ardeidae Striated Heron Small shoreline heron
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias Ardeidae Great Blue Heron Large solitary wader
Galápagos Mockingbird Mimus parvulus Mimidae Galápagos Mockingbird Endemic; very curious
Galápagos Yellow Warbler Setophaga petechia aureola Parulidae Yellow Warbler Endemic subspecies
Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus Strigidae Short-eared Owl Genovesa; hunts storm-petrels
Darwin’s Finches Geospiza, Camarhynchus, Certhidea, etc. Thraupidae Darwin’s Finches Endemic radiation; varies by island

The Red-billed (in fact all Tropicbirds) are known to seamen as Bosun Birds. This is because their tail feathers stick out like a Bosun’s (Boatswain’s ) marlin spike from his belt.

Red-billed Tropicbird (Phaethon aethereus)

Distinguishing between the various Storm-Petrels was quite difficult. I relied on the Cornell Bird Identification app Merlin to help me.

The variations between the finches on the different islands is one of the cornerstones of Darwin’s Theory of Evolution, I really should have done better at identifying them, but I failed miserably.

The sheer volume of birds was almost overwhelming. The fact that you could walk more or less right up to them, made it even more so.

That was our morning expedition. It was one of the highlights of the trip.

After Lunch

After we went kayaking around the cliffs of Darwin Bay. This was actually where I saw the Tropic Bird. I didn’t manage to get a photo. The photo above is a stock photo I found. They are beautiful birds, and I thought you deserved to see what they look like.

Kayaking was fun, but we decided against paddle boarding.

Diane and me Kayaking
Not Diane and me Paddle Boarding

We didn’t sink, we didn’t capsize, and we didn’t scare the sea lions, so I think it was a success.

Just before sunset we landed on the beach at the opposite end of Darwin Bay from Prince Philip’s Steps. We had a gentle stroll along the beach, encountering, Sealions, a nesting colony of Red-footed Boobies, Swallow tailed Gulls, juvenile Frigate Birds, various herons and a Galapagos Yellow Warbler.

The Red-Footed Boobies have two variants, a white one and a brown one. They are the same species. They can and do inter breed.

After that it was back to the Santa Cruz II for our last night.

Sunset

It was then time to pack our bags ready to go home tomorrow, but not before a farewell cocktail and dinner.

The expedition crew

The adventure wasn’t quite over, but tomorrow morning we would be on our way home, with a lot of photographs and even more memories.

Peru, Ecuador and The Galapagos, Travel

The Galapagos Islands – Part III

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Saturday 7th: Tortoises and Other Creatures

Today we woke up anchored in the bay off Puerto Ayora. Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island is the largest town in the Galapagos Islands. It is the M.V Santa Cruz II’s home port. It is also, and more relevant to today’s excursions, home to the Charles Darwin Research Station. This was our first port of call on Santa Cruz.

After landing and navigating past the sea lions and marine iguanas littering the wharf (the National Park really should have a word with them), we took a gentle walk to the entrance of the research station.

We saw many birds on the way there, none of which I could identify.

The Charles Darwin Foundation, which the research centre is part of, is dedicated to the conservation of the Galapagos Islands’ environment.

” As one of the most renowned planetary treasures, the Galapagos Islands have played an unrivalled role in the history of science. For more than 60 years, the research undertaken at the Charles Darwin Foundation has focused on furthering our understanding of the natural systems, their relationship with those living in the archipelago, and the intricate and delicate balance between climate, mankind, and nature.

Major research efforts have also focused on the prevention, control, and eradication of invasive species to maintain Galapagos as one of the best-conserved archipelagos in the world.”

The man himself.

The most visible research and conservation programme at the centre is concerned with the preservation of the Galápagos’ most notable animal, the giant tortoise.

The giant tortoise (Chelonoidis niger), which has or had several subspecies. Some of the subspecies are now extinct, others are critically endangered. In the 18th and 19th centuries the tortoises were hunted for food and oil. Because a tortoise can live for a long time without either food or water, they were seen as a source of fresh meat by the crews of passing ships. The Floreana Giant Tortoise became extinct in exactly this manner. Other sub-species were badly depleted by this practice. Introduced animals, mainly but not limited to rats, cats and dogs also wreaked havoc on the tortoise population.

This link takes you to a list of all the sub-species of Galapagos Tortoises, showing their current conservation status.

We were shown round the various breeding enclosures where tortoises are reared before they are returned to the wild.

As you can see, giant tortoises are not always giants at least to start with.

Eggs are harvested and incubated in temperature-controlled conditions. This is necessary as the incubation temperature influences the sex of the hatchling. Warmer temperatures produce more females and cooler temperatures more males. With global warming more females than males were being born.

After having looked round the enclosures we went to meet “Lonesome George.” His stuffed remains, to be, more exact.

Lonesome George (Spanish: Solitario George or Jorge, c. 1910 June 24, 2012) was a male Pinta Island tortoise (Chelonoidis niger abingdonii) and the last known individual of the subspecies. In his last years, he was known as the rarest creature in the world. George serves as an important symbol for conservation efforts in the Galápagos Islands and throughout the world.

After having had a look around the museum attached to the centre, it was time to go and meet the Giant Tortoises in the wild.

But first we had to get there. We had two options: be lazy and get the coach, or cycle there. Diane, because of her knee, took the coach. I decided to cycle. This was possibly a mistake, because it started to rain as soon as we got on the bikes.

Cycling through the rain

The bike was also probably the worst I had ridden in years. It lacked electric assist. I have probably become too accustomed to my e-bike over the past few years.

Wet but unbowed, the gallant cyclists at our destination.

We visited a sugar cane plantation for lunch. Before lunch they showed us their production process, or to be more exact, the way they used to produce sugar.

Crushing the cane
Fermentation
Distillation

They also produce a type of rum, my feeling is that the process is slightly more sophisticated than that shown above. The end product is still a bit rough though. I bought a bottle for my friend Toby.

After seeing and sampling their various products—sugar, alcohol, coffee, and cocoa—we had a rather good lunch.

The sugar cane plantation is on one of the migration routes of the Giant Tortoises. So after lunch we got to see them in the wild. Actually, we had seen quite a few on the way into the plantation. If they are on the road they have right of way.

An intrepid wildlife photographer

It is quite surprising exactly how large they are. The biggest of them are around a metre, maybe a bit more, in length. They like to bask in ponds in order to cool off.

After our tortoise encounter we went back to Puerto Ayora to catch the Panga back to the ship. We stayed behind for an hour or so, to do some souvenir shopping and have a beer, which came with fresh plantain chips on the side.

As we sat on the pier waiting for the panga, we were fascinated by the marine life. There were sea lions and marine iguanas, of course. In the water were sharks, rays, and turtles. On the rocks were herons and crabs.

After that it was back to the ship for a briefing on the next day’s activities, then dinner and bed.

Peru, Ecuador and The Galapagos, Travel

The Galapagos Islands – Part II

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Friday 6th Isabela and Fernandina Islands

Overnight we sailed from Santa Cruz round the north of Isabela and by breakfast time we were anchored off Punta Vincente Roca.

After breakfast the first item on the day’s agenda was getting kitted out for snorkelling. HX supply all the equipment required, including short wetsuits. It didn’t take too long to find a wetsuit that I could fit into. As well as the other kit, I needed fins, a mask, a snorkel, and a buoyancy vest. The latter was fairly important for me initially. I wanted to snorkel, but I hadn’t done it for about forty years and had never snorkelled in deep water before. I was understandably slightly apprehensive. The buoyancy vest reassured me.

It may seem surprising that a wetsuit is needed to snorkel on the equator (Punta Vincente Roca is actually on the equator). The water in the Galapagos can be surprisingly cold. The Humboldt (a.k.a. Peru) current brings water all the way up from Antarctica, and while it does get warmer on its trip north it is still only 18-19 °C by the time it gets to the Galapagos. Spend twenty minutes in that and you will begin to feel cold.

Isabela Island – Punta Vincente Roca

It was slightly overcast when we set off in the Panga. We went initially on a tour around the base of the cliffs of Punta Vincente Roca. Our naturalist guide Alex explained the geology of the islands. The Galapagos Islands are volcanic and very young geologically. Isabela, the island we were visiting, is less than a million years old. It still has active volcanoes. The most recent eruption was in 2018.

Ready

The cliffs are home to many birds, including flightless cormorants and blue-footed boobies, as well as sea lions and Galápagos fur seals. The Galápagos fur seal is actually a sea lion, just to confuse you.

Flightless Cormorant
Fur “Seal”

Having had our geology lesson and a close look at the wildlife, it was time to discover the underwater fauna. We were already suited up, so all we had to do was slip our masks and fins on. We had a short briefing on what to do in the water. Basically, we received instructions on how to signal the Panga and other snorkelers if we were in trouble, and how to indicate that we were okay. We were also told that sea lions are quite curious and not to worry if they decided to investigate what we were doing.

We had bought an underwater video camera before we left home. What I should have done was learn how to use it. There are a couple of fairly decent clips, which I might include in later posts, but most of the footage is, unfortunately, rubbish.

However, even though I have no photographic evidence, the experience was amazing. Within a minute of entering the water, a couple of sea lions came close enough for me to touch. Parrot fish and Yellow Tailed Surgeon Fish were everywhere. There were also several Green Sea Turtles swimming around, completely ignoring us.

Underwater at Punta Vincente Roca

This video was shot by the professional photographer/videographer on board. It is not my handiwork (unfortunately).

After our underwater excursion, it was back to the ship for lunch and to recover before our afternoon hike on Fernandina Island.

Fernandina Island

Fernandina Island is the youngest island in the Galapagos group. It is also the westernmost. It is less than half a million years old, geologically speaking, hardly even a toddler. It is still an active volcano. Its most recent eruption was in March 2024.

Geological interlude
The Formation of the Galapagos Islands

The Galapagos Islands are a group of volcanic islands situated in the eastern Pacific Ocean. They lie approximately 600 miles west of the coast of mainland Ecuador.

Geological Origins

The archipelago was created as a result of volcanic activity. This process began when the Nazca tectonic plate moved eastwards across a stationary hotspot—an area where magma from deep within the Earth rises up towards the surface.

Island Formation Process

Each volcanic eruption over this hotspot gradually deposited layers of lava. Over time, these successive eruptions built up the land, eventually forming the islands that exist today.

Variation in Island Age

The Galápagos Islands display a range of ages resulting from the movement of the Nazca Plate. Eastern islands such as Española and San Cristóbal are the oldest in the archipelago and have ceased volcanic activity, They are now geologically stable.

In contrast, the western islands, including Isabela and Fernandina, are comparatively young. These islands continue to experience frequent volcanic eruptions, indicating ongoing geological processes.

Isabela Island Formation

Isabela Island stands out as the largest landmass within the Galápagos archipelago. Its size is the result of the merging of six separate volcanoes. This unique formation has contributed to its prominence among the islands.

Physical Features

The majority of the islands possess a conical shape typical of volcanic origins. These formations are characterised by steep slopes and elevated peaks, with some summits rising more than 5,000 feet above sea level.

Back to the adventure

We had a dry landing on Fernandina, which was good as I could wear my walking shoes. The lava floes would have been a bit rough with any other footwear.

Upon arrival, our first job was to pick our way through the sea lion bodies arrayed along the shore and in the scrubland behind the beach.

Sealion
Another Sealion
More Sealions
Sealion playing dead

In addition to sea lions, there were marine iguanas everywhere, along with a few lava lizards.

The scenery in the Galapagos Islands is generally quite rugged and barren. This is not surprising given the recent origin of the islands. The wildlife, however, is very varied. In general, the animals act as if you don’t exist, which is great, and you can get close enough to take most of your photos with your phone.

Arriving back on board, we had time for a shower and a change of clothes before pre-dinner drinks on the after deck. The sunset was spectacular. This meant that we were able to take lots of romantic looking photos.

Me and Di
Helen & Tony
Helen and Di

Dinner was good, then it was time for bed, as another busy day was scheduled for tomorrow.