Our Peru, Ecuador, and the Galapagos Islands Adventure – The Galapagos Islands – Part II

Friday 6th Isabela and Fernandina Islands

Overnight we sailed from Santa Cruz round the north of Isabela and by breakfast time we were anchored off Punta Vincente Roca.

After breakfast the first item on the days agenda was getting kitted out for snorkelling. HX supply all the equipment required, including short wetsuits. It didn’t take too long to find a wetsuit that I could fit into. As well as the other kit, fins, a mask and snorkel and a buoyancy vest. The latter was fairly important for me initially. I wanted to snorkel, but I hadn’t done it for about forty years. I had never snorkelled in deep water before. I was understandably slightly apprehensive. The buoyancy vest reassured me.

It may seem surprising that a wetsuit is needed to snorkel on the equator (Punta Vincente Roca is actually on the equator). The water in the Galapagos can be surprisingly cold. The Humboldt (a.k.a. Peru) current brings water all the way up from Antarctica, and while it does get warmer on its trip north it is still only 18-19 °C by the time it gets to the Galapagos. Spend twenty minutes in that and you will begin to feel cold.

Isabela Island – Punta Vincente Roca

It was slightly overcast when we set off in the Panga. We went initially on a tour around the base of the cliffs of Punta Vincente Roca. Our naturalist guide Alex explained the geology of the islands. The Galapagos Islands are volcanic and very young geologically. Isabella, the island we were visiting is less than a million years old. It still has active volcanoes. The most recent eruption was in 2018.

Ready

The cliffs are home to many birds, including flightless cormorants and blue footed boobies. They are also home to Sealions and Galapagos Fur Seals. The Galapagos Fur Seal is actually a sealion just to confuse you.

Flightless Cormorant
Fur “Seal”

Having had our geology lesson and a close look at the wild life, it was time to discover the underwater fauna. We were already suited up, so all we had to do was slip our masks and fins on. We had a short briefing on what to do in the water. Basically it was instructions about how to signal back to the Panga and other snorkelers if we were in trouble. Also how to indicate that we were OK. In addition we were told that sealions are quite curious and not to worry if they decided to investigate what we were doing.

We had bought an underwater video camera before we left home. What I should have done was learn how to use it. There are a couple of quarter decent clips, which I might include in later posts, but most of the footage is, unfortunatly, rubbish.

However, even though, I have no photographic evidence, the experience was amazing. Within a minute of entering the water I had a couple of sealions come close enough to me to touch. Parrot fish and Yellow Tailed Surgeon Fish were everywhere. There were also several Green Sea Turtles swimming around, completely ignoring us.

Underwater at Punta Vincente Roca

This video was shot by the professional photographer/videographer that we had on board. It is not my handy work (unfortunatly).

After our underwater excursion, it was back to the ship for lunch. and recover for our afternoon hike on Fernandina Island.

Fernandina Island

Fernandina Island is the youngest island in the Galapagos group. It is also the furthest west. It is less than half a million years old, geologically speaking, hardly even a toddler. It is still an active volcano. Its most recent eruption was in March 2024.

Geological interlude
The Formation of the Galapagos Islands

The Galapagos Islands are a group of volcanic islands situated in the eastern Pacific Ocean. They lie approximately 600 miles west of the coast of mainland Ecuador.

Geological Origins

The archipelago was created as a result of volcanic activity. This process began when the Nazca tectonic plate moved eastwards across a stationary hotspot—an area where magma from deep within the Earth rises up towards the surface.

Island Formation Process

Each volcanic eruption over this hotspot gradually deposited layers of lava. Over time, these successive eruptions built up the land, eventually forming the islands that exist today.

Variation in Island Age

The Galápagos Islands display a range of ages resulting from the movement of the Nazca Plate. This geological activity has given rise to a distinct pattern: eastern islands such as Española and San Cristóbal are the oldest in the archipelago. These islands have ceased volcanic activity and are now geologically stable.

In contrast, the western islands, including Isabela and Fernandina, are comparatively young. These islands continue to experience frequent volcanic eruptions, indicating ongoing geological processes.

Isabela Island Formation

Isabela Island stands out as the largest landmass within the Galápagos archipelago. Its size is the result of the merging of six separate volcanoes. This unique formation has contributed to its prominence among the islands.

Physical Features

The majority of the islands possess a conical shape typical of volcanic origins. These formations are characterised by steep slopes and elevated peaks, with some summits rising more than 5,000 feet above sea level.

Back to the adventure

We had a dry landing on Fernandina, which was good as I could wear my walking shoes. The lava floes would have been a bit rough with any other footwear.

Arriving the first job was to pick our way through the Sealion bodies arrayed along the shore and in the scrubland behind the beach.

As well as sealions everywhere there were also Marine Iguanas everywhere as well. (And a few lava lizards)

The scenery in the Galapagos Islands is generally quite rugged and barren. This is not surprising given the recent origin of the islands. The wild life however is very varied. In general the animals act as if you don’t exist. which is great. In general you can get close enough to them to take most of your photos with your phone.

Arriving back on board, we had time for a shower and a change of clothes before pre-dinner drinks on the after deck. The sunset was spectacular. This meant that we were able to take lots of romantic looking photos.

Dinner was good, then it was time for bed, as another busy day was scheduled for tomorrow.

Our Peru, Ecuador, and the Galapagos Islands Adventure – The Galapagos Islands

Thursday 5th – Arrival

We were finally off for the main bit of the adventure. Our voyage round the Galapagos Islands.

As we had been living out of partially unpacked suitcases for a week. One thing I was definitely looking forward to, was being able to unpack properly, and not having to repack for eight days.

This morning, we hoped, would be the last early start for a while. We weren’t completely wrong.

On our way

So it was up early,again, a slightly rushed breakfast, then onto the coach to the airport.

The flight had a brief stop in Guayaquil, to refuel and pick up a few extra passengers. We were finally off to the Galapagos Islands.

They take bio-security very seriously in the Galapagos. As well as having to make various declarations that you do not have any nasties with you, you bag is searched and sealed. You are not allowed to break the seal until you get on board the ship. Arrival is a bit like arriving in New Zealand. The plane is sprayed before the doors are opened to kill any stray bugs. You have to, again, certify that you do not have any inappropriate food stuffs and the like. One step beyond NZ is that your bags are X-rayed after you arrive. The process was all pretty seamless.

The transfer from the airport on Baltra to the ship was equally seamless. Our baggage was collected at the airport and the next time we saw it is was in our cabin. There were buses to take us from the terminal to the dock where we were taken by Panga (the local name of what we would call a RIB or Zodiac) to the ship.

Intrepid adventurers on their way to an adventure
Frigate Bird

On arrival, we were greeted with a cold drink, then shown to our cabins. Afterwards we had a welcome briefing, boat drill and lunch. We were given just about enough time to unpack, before being whisked off on our first hike.


The Western Route

HX (the company we were traveling with) has three routes that the MV Santa Cruz II takes around the Galapagos Islands. Initially we would be following The Western Route, visiting Santa Cruz Island, Isabela Island, and Fernandina Island. We then came back to Santa Cruz Island before visiting Floreana Island, and finally coming back to Baltra Island, where some passengers left the ship and others joined.

While we were having our briefing, boat drill and lunch the ship was cruising along the north coast of Santa Cruz. We anchored of Dragon Hill, where we went ashore for a hike. My guess is that Dragon Hill (Cero Dragon in Spanish) gets it’s name from the dragons that live there.

The “dragons” are iguanas. There are two types, Marine Iguanas and Land Iguanas.

We were divided up into groups of ten or twelve for our hikes and other excursions. Our group was The Gulls. Each group had a very knowledgeable local naturalist to guide us. They also made sure that we kept to the designated paths, to avoid disturbing the wildlife. The landing at Dragon Hill was a wet landing, meaning, the Panga runs up onto the beach where you jump out into the shallow water and wade ashore.

The first part of our walk took us past a brackish lagoon inhabited by flamingos, black necked stilts and a couple of lava gulls.

Pelican
Lava Gull

The Lava gull, also known as the Dusky Gull, is the world’s rarest gull. It is only found in the Galapagos islands.

Diane (and Diane) after a wet landing.

After an interesting hike during which we saw Land Iguanas, Marine Iguanas, Flamingos, Black Necked Stilts, Lava Gulls, Blue-footed Boobies and Pelicans, plus a few other birds that I didn’t identify, it was back to the ship for a shower and a change of clothes.

Before dinner we were given a briefing about what to expect tomorrow. That was followed by Captain’s welcome cocktails, or in my case a beer, and an introduction to our crew. Dinner was excellent. Then it was time for a small whisky as a nightcap and then bed.

While we were asleep the ship sailed to our next destination.

Our Peru, Ecuador, and Galapagos Islands Adventure – Quito

Tuesday 3rd Cuzco to Quito

Another early start, though not as early as yesterday. It was a civilized five thirty a.m. wake up call this morning. We actually had time to sit down and eat breakfast before heading for the bus to the airport.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, our hotel, in Cuzco, the Palacio del Inka, was a remarkable hotel. It offered excellent food, luxurious rooms, and brilliant staff. It had everything you could want in a hotel. There was also a lot of history associated with the building. We didn’t get time to appreciate it. Because of the schedule we were on, we might as well have stayed in a Travel Lodge.

This is my only criticism of the holiday. I would have liked this phase to have been slowed down a bit. An extra day in Cuzco would have been good. Our son did a tour of South America a few years back and said that he really loved Cuzco.

On with the journey.

To get to Quito from Cuzco we had to fly via Lima. The first flight left Cuzco about nine and arrived in Lima about an hour and a half later. We had about an other hour and a half to wait for our flight to Quito. That flight took about two and a half hours. By the time we had cleared immigration and customs, and got the bus to our hotel it was six p.m. when we arrived. There was not much to report about today. The quinoa bars that Latam Airlines serve as an in-flight snack are OK. Still, I would have preferred a packet of crisps.

Our hotel was another Marriott hotel. All the hotels we stayed in were Marriott hotels. The JW Marriott Hotel to be exact. It was a modern glass and concrete building, but reasonably attractive. The rooms were comfortable and the food was good

A pair of very curious travelers.

Wednesday 4th – Chocolate, policemen and The Centre of the World.

We had a moderately sane start to today, our tour left at 9:30. Waking up at 7:30 gave us enough time to actually sit down and enjoy breakfast.

Chocolate

Ecuadorian chocolate is probably the best in the world. A visit to an artisan chocolatier was the first stop on our tour of Quito and its surrounding area.

Indemini Baez has been going for about twenty years and is the product of an Ecuadorian-Swiss couple Bertrand Indemini and Cristina Baez. The chocolate pedigree is there. We were given a short history of the origins of chocolate. We were then introduced to how they make their chocolate. Their beans are carefully sourced. All their beans are fairly traded, and they keep track even down to community and plantation level where each batch is sourced.

We were given a demonstration of how the chocolate is made. Samples of their various products were tried. Most of their chocolate is in the 55% to 100% cocoa solids range. ( The 100% stuff is an acquired taste.) They also make an interesting white chocolate, based on cocoa butter and barley.

They also add things such as chilli, black walnuts and Inca peanuts to their bars.

Obviously there was an opportunity to buy some of the chocolate. Which we did, with the intention of taking it home as presents. Some of it even made it back to the UK. It is very good chocolate.

Policemen (and Jesuits)

Following our chocolate experience, we went for a walking tour of central Quito. We walked to the Plaza Grande, home to the Presidential Palace, various other government buildings and more police than you could shake a stick at. They all were very friendly, almost cuddly. (Unlike some of the police we met later when we were stranded in Guayaquil, more of that in a later post). I think they were meant to be a reassuring presence, which they were. But there were a lot of them.

Moving on from the Plaza Grande we visited the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús (the Jesuit Church). It is, to my taste, a bit over the top. They have slightly over done the gilding, overdone it to the extent, that if the church was melted down, it would probably solve Ecuador’s national debt. Check out the gallery to see what I mean.

By this time it was more or less time for lunch. We were whisked off to the El Cráter Hotel, which as the name suggests is on the edge of a volcanic crater (no longer active). The Cráter Pululahua to be precise. The views from the terrace were impressive.

Moderately interesting, useless fact; the city of Quito is built over the craters of seven inactive volcanoes.

The lunch was also good.

The Centre of The World

After a short llama encounter we travelled on to Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World). Ecuador, as it’s name indicates is bisected by the Equator. Quito is very slightly to the south of the line. It was fun to stand with one foot in the northern hemisphere and one in the southern. Giving Diane a kiss across the hemispheres also had to be done.

Other than taking a few photos there wasn’t that much else to be done there. There were a few shops and places to get a coffee. There was a reasonably interesting display of the history of Ecuador inside the tower, but other than that nothing to keep you on site for longer than an hour.

It was then back to the hotel for what we thought would be our last night on mainland South America.

There was a bit of time to kill before dinner. As the hotel had a pool I decided to have a swim. I had sort of forgotten about the altitude (2850 metres). Being about five hundred meters lower than Cuzco, and because I was becoming acclimatised to the it, I was no longer getting out breath just walking. Swimming was different. I found that I could only manage about ten meters before having to stop for a rest. It was nice to have a swim though.

Then it was dinner and bed, before another early start as we headed off to the Galapagos Islands and the reason we had spent the amount of money we did.