Tag Archives: Alps

My Holidays (By John M aged 62 ¾): Part 1 Getting There

Ihadn’t been on a proper holiday since Grace died just over two years ago. I’m sure my sister won’t mind me saying that going up to Scotland to stay with her and my brother-in-law is a break rather than a holiday. So I decided to organise one for myself. Something that I hadn’t done for, well I suppose, ever. Grace used to organise our holidays. I would be told, “We are going to (say) Switzerland for the last two weeks in June. Make sure that you have booked your holidays”. Before we were married I didn’t organise holidays so much as head off in my car or on my bike and see where I ended up.
I decided to go with Great Rail Journeys (GRJ) to Zell am See. Three reasons (in the main) why I made that choice;

    1. Grace and I had gone with Great Rail Journeys in the past so I knew what to expect. I knew that if I wanted to find someone to talk to or have a drink with I could and that if I wanted to be on my own then I could do that as well.
    2. They did not want a ridiculous supplement for being a solo traveller. Some companies want 100%.
    3. Grace and I had a wonderful holiday in Zell am See about twenty-five years ago and I thought it would be a good place for my first solo trip.

Day 1 Wallington to Cologne

This should really start at day -2 when I had to go shopping for some new clothes. I hadn’t actually bought any clothes (apart from underwear and socks) for about four years. My smart but casual wardrobe was looking a bit more casual than smart. That was accomplished reasonably painlessly, although it did take two trips. I’m happy with what I bought although Grace would probably have said “booooring”.
Packing was also carried out without much drama, and I didn’t forget anything vital.

A combination of the 157 bus, the tram and an unusually on-time Thameslink train got me up to St Pancras just before twelve. I checked in with GRJ, decided to go straight through security and passport control and have a coffee at Café Nero, because that is what Grace and I used to do when we were waiting for the Eurostar. But Café Nero isn’t there anymore. They must have lost the franchise. So I made do with a beer instead, Leffe, because we were initially heading for Belgium.

I sat there sipping my beer, looking forward to my holiday, but also feeling a bit lost, a bit nervous and slightly tearful. I was going on holiday without Grace for the first time in thirty odd years.

The rest of the day was Eurostar to Brussels followed by the Thalys to Cologne. Apart from a short walk around the inspiring (not) area around Station Brussel-Zuid and the Thalys taking longer than normal, I assumed because of engineering works, there was not ready that much else to remark on. The journey across northern France and Belgium isn’t particularly attractive. So here are photos of the trains I travelled on.

We stayed over night at The Hotel Maritim in Cologne, a very pleasant hotel with a state of the art shower, complete with adjustable mood lighting.

Day 2 Cologne to Zell am See

It was an early start to catch the ICE ( I do like Germany’s ICE trains) to Munich. But not before breakfast including a croissant with Nutella, because Grace used to say that you couldn’t be sure that you were in continental Europe unless you had a croissant with Nutella for breakfast. Then we had a long day on the train(s) to Zell am See. The scenery on the first part of the journey is either flat industrial farm land or flat industrial, but as the train ventures further south, somewhere in the Stuttgart region, it changes to rolling hills. Approaching Munich, the Alps appear on the horizon. 20180521_131809
I arrived in Munich about 12:30 so it was time for lunch. As far as I am concerned there is only one thing to have for lunch between trains in Germany, Bratwurst and Beer.
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The next part of the journey slowed things down a bit. Instead of flying along at 280 km/hr, I changed to an EC train from Munich to a place called Schwarzach St Veit. It pootled its way through the really rather pretty alpine foothills at what felt like 25 km/hr.

At Schwarzach I caught a local train to Zell am See. It was a bit crowded and reservations did not seem to apply, the south London commuter instincts kicked in, there is a seat, no one else seems to want it ok, it’s mine.

The scenery gradually became more spectacular as I approached Zell am See. I arrived about 17:00 and from the station it was a five-minute walk to the hotel.

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Die Zeller See
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Grand Hotel Zell am See

The Grand Hotel looked quite grand but in some ways was less grand than I hoped it would be. I won’t dwell on its short comings, because that’s not the point of this post. If you want a definitive hotel review try Trip Advisor. It had been a long day on the trains, so after dinner and a couple of beers I went to bed.

Bike ride to Scotland: Part 2 Hitchin to Lincoln

Day 2 – 05/05/2003 (Monday) Hitchin to Lincoln

I underestimated the distance from Hitchin to Lincoln. I thought it was around a hundred miles, it turned out to be nearer one hundred and thirty. Most of the way was flat, well the first two-thirds of the route was across the Cambridgeshire and Lincolnshire Fens.

Click for a larger map

On the last third of the route, from Sleaford to Lincoln, I made the discovery, that contrary to popular belief Lincolnshire actually has hills. They are not the Alps, although I did see a sign advertising the head quarters of the local mountain rescue society in one of the villages. This Facebook page possibly belongs to them or their successors. However when the hills arrive in the last thirty miles of a long ride, one that is thirty miles further than you expected, they are hard enough. (The route profile does make them look a bit worse than they actually are).

I had expected the countryside to be a bit boring and unattractive. In spite of the unremitting flatness and the difficulty in distinguishing one stretch of road from the next, I found the scenery quite attractive.
Watercolour Sketch of the Fens

I stopped for lunch in Spalding round about two pm. I found a café selling cheap carbohydrates and refueled. I have noticed that when I am touring, and especially doing longer distance, that my critical faculties as regards food drop off. As long as it fills the hole I am happy.

It was after I passed Sleaford that I entered the Lincolnshire Wolds and the road started to go up. After riding through flat-lands all day riding up the hills was initially a pleasant change. It is not that steep, but you are climbing constantly for thirty or so miles. I kept consoling myself with the thought that I would probably be able to free-wheel the last ten miles into Lincoln. Not quite. Yes I did free-wheel into Lincoln, but not in the gentle controlled way I had anticipated. All the height that I gained in two hours of climbing I dissipated in about three minutes as the road took the short route down a cliff face into Lincoln. You can see it if you look carefully at the elevation profile.


I stayed the night at the Lincoln Youth Hostel (which has sadly since been closed). I was too late for an evening meal at the Hostel, due to me taking about two and a half hours longer than anticipated because the route was thirty files longer than I thought it was. I wandered out into town had a look around and found myself a curry. Very nice it was too.

Part 1 Wallington to Hitchin

Part 3 Lincoln to York >